Again I'm using the parts from the AHM 0-8-0 plastic locomotive kit from the late 60's and early 70's.|
The wheel spacing on the 0-8-0 is drastically different from that used on the 4-6-4 locomotive so this locomotive will be a "freelance" design but will be similar to this Canadian National locomotive.
This is the chassis frame for the 0-8-0 engine.
The front set of drive wheels are removed and the front frame is extended out to make room for the 4-wheel leading truck.
I built the leading truck out of sheet brass and used the wheels from the 0-8-0 tender.
On the left is the steam cylinders from the 0-8-0 kit and on the right is the modified steam cylinders for this engine.
Here is the chassis with the steam cylinders and leading truck mounted in place.
This is the boiler shell from the AHM 0-8-0 kit.
I cut part off the front of the boiler shell and trimmed it up on the lathe so the cut edge is square and smooth.
Then I cut a piece of PVC drain pipe and machined one end so it will fit inside the end of the front boiler piece.
The two pieces are glued together to form the boiler for the 4-6-4 engine.
The cab is cut off the AHM plastic model and is glued onto the new boiler.
Here is how it looks once the glue has dried.
I cut the back two thirds off the floor plate for the tender and glued it to the underside of the cab.
The tender frame section does not extend all the way up under the cab so a piece of gray styrene "I-beam" is glued on top of the floor plate on each side to strengthen that area.
I need room under the rear of this engine for a 4-wheel truck to support the tender.
The rear of the chassis frame is cut off right behind the rear springs.
A piece of .030 thick sheet styrene is glued to the rear of the chassis.
Another piece of the " I-beam " is glued on each side for strength.
A hole is drilled and tapped in the white piece of styrene that is glued on top of the tender floor plate behind the cab.
Two small pieces of styrene are glued to the rear chassis frame to thicken this area up so I can drill a countersunk hole in the other side for a flat head screw.
The boiler is set upside-down and rear frame work of the chassis fits on either side of the tender frame.
The flat head screw fastens the chassis and boiler together at the rear.
There is a long screw at the front that goes up thru the steam cylinders and fastens into the boiler to hold the front of the engine together.
Here is how it looks so far.
The electric motor fits thru a hole that is cut in the floor plate.
I trimmed the two sides for the lower part of fire box and glued one on each side of the cab.
The sides for the back of the tender are cut to size and glued in place.
Here is the back of the tender.
I need to make a piece that will fit on the floor of the cab to hide the electric motor.
So I cut the top off a plastic bottle that toothpicks came in.
Then I cut that part in half and painted it black.
This half round piece is glued on the floor of the cab to hide the motor.
Once the cab roof is attached and everything is painted, this piece won't be very noticeable.
The rear panel for the cab is also glued in place on the front of the tender.
Next is to make up the top section for the tender.
The inside of the coal bunker is lined with wax paper and a piece of wood is set inside it.
A thick layer of adhesive caulking is spread over the piece of wood.
Some "coal" is pored over it and pressed down into the adhesive.
The excess coal is cleaned off and the part is set aside so the adhesive can dry.
I'm using the "coal" that is made by Lionel.
The adhesive turns clear when it is dry.
Here is the tender with the coal bunker in place.
The steam dome and the sand dome are mounted on the boiler.
The frame is painted and the electrical contacts that ride up against the inside of the drive wheels are fastened in place.
The linkage is put together.
The brake shoes, drive wheels and side rods are then mounted to the frame.
Here is the chassis so far.
Here is the finished locomotive.