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What is the J&C Studios O Gauge Archive?

J&C Studios O Gauge Archive

O Gauge / O Scale Forums and Individual Blogs for Model Railroading

What is the J&C Studios O Gauge Archive?
(Guest)   JCS Archive   jdcrawler   2-8-8-2 Locomotive
2-8-8-2 Locomotive
Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Jan 22, 2016 02:45 PM:
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Building another O-scale model steam locomotive using parts from the AHM / Rivarossi 0-8-0 plastic locomotive kit that was available back in the 70's.
We are also building a new house so I only play with model trains when the weather is too cold to work on the house.
...... Because of this, the updates for this locomotive could be days, weeks or even months apart. ......

This is a freelance design and will have a wheel arrangement of 2-8-8-2 and be modeled similar to this engine.

The front and rear section was cut off of two of the AHM chassis.
The chassis at the top is what the stock frame looked like from the AHM model kit.

I glued a piece of white styrene to the back of one of the frames to form a pad for the attaching screw that will hold the two frames together.
Using part of a tender drawbar, I glued it to the front of the other frame for the attaching bar.

Then I turned a piece of brass down and taped it to take a 2-56 screw to form a shoulder bolt for the attaching screw.

This screw fastens the two frames together.

With the two frames attached, this shows how much the front frame will be able to rotate in relation to the rear frame.
A model railroad layout has to have wide radius turns in order for this type of locomotive to run on it.

These are flat brass castings to make the leading and trailing truck.

The top casting is for the lead truck but is not long enough to just bend into shape so it is cut into two pieces.
The axle holes are already drilled into this casting but they are larger then the axle ends on the wheels from the AHM kit.

I turned a piece of brass down in the lathe and drilled a smaller hole in it to form a bushing for the axle holes.

The bushing is pressed into the casting part on the right.

The bottom casting is for the trailing truck and needs to have the holes drilled into it for the axle shaft but it is long enough so it just needs to be bent into shape to form the truck.

I used a brass bracket for mounting an electric motor in an engine and bent it so the ends of the casting for the leading truck were held together by the bracket.
Then I soldered the parts together to form the leading truck.

Joined: May 14, 2008
Topics: 83   Replies: 517
posted on Jan 22, 2016 05:37 PM:
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Wow this looks like a LOT of fun... !
Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Jan 23, 2016 05:21 PM:
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A block of styrene is fastened between the frame rails at the back of the rear chassis.

The trailing truck is attached to the rear of this chassis.

This pilot beam will fit nicely on the front chassis but it is damaged and needs to be repaired first.

Back when I had all my tools available for working on my model trains, I had a resistance solder machine that was really nice for working with brass.
That solder machine is packed away with a lot of other specialty tools and I'm having to do any un-soldering and soldering with my small soldering gun.

The damaged front panel is removed from the "cow catcher".
You can see that the rear panel for the cow catcher is bent back some and has broken loose from the pilot beam.

The rear panel piece is straightened and re-soldered to the beam.

The support bracket behind the rear panel is missing from the damaged side.

I cut out a new support bracket and soldered it in place on the damaged side.

Then the front panel for the cow catcher was straightened and soldered back in place.
Using a magnifying glass and a very fine ( .015 dia. ) solder makes it easier to complete the job without getting a bunch of solder all over the part.

Here's how the pilot looks so far.

It is still missing the foot plates on either side of the cow catcher.
I cut two pieces from a strip of diamond patterned brass and bent one edge at a 90 deg.

Another strip of smooth brass was cut and bent for the support brackets.
These were then soldered to the back side of the foot plates.

.047 diameter mounting holes are drilled into the underside of the pilot.

These mounting holes are then tapped for a 0-80 thread.

The foot plates are then attached to the underside of the pilot with 0-80 screws.

This is the finished pilot.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Jan 26, 2016 04:36 PM:
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The front frame for the pilot is cut from a block of styrene.
I drew the shape of the frame on the yellow pad then copied that pattern onto the styrene block.
Here the cuts are all made but the block is still together.

Separating the pieces after the cuts are made leaves the frame section in the center.

The pilot is then attached to the frame with small screws.

This is then attached to the front chassis.

I make up little "shoulder bolts" like this for any pivot points.

For the pivot on the leading and trailing truck, the brass part is put thru the hole in the arm of the truck from the top.
Then a washer is put on the screw and it is threaded up thru the brass piece.
This makes it so the pivot bolt is permanently attached to the truck.

The leading truck is attached to the front chassis.

The rear chassis hes styrene "I-beams" glued to it to extend the frame and the rear portion of the AHM lower cab is glued to the ends of the I-beams.

With the front and rear extensions added to the chassis units, it makes the total chassis about 19-1/2 inch long.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Jan 31, 2016 07:46 PM:
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This locomotive requires a much larger firebox than what is on the AHM 0-8-0 model.
The AHM model has two side panels that make up the firebox so I used four of these parts to build the new firebox.
I cut the front section off two of the parts and cut the rear section off the other two parts.
These modified parts were then glued together to form a longer firebox panel for each side of the locomotive.

The two original parts are at the top of the photo.
The two new firebox sides are in the center.
The sections that were cut off are at the bottom of the photo.

These new firebox panels were then glued in place under the cab.

This unit is than fit onto the rear chassis.

The smoke box was cut off the front of one of the AHM models.
I wanted to turn this on the lathe to make sure the cut end is square and smooth so I had to get a little creative with mounting it on the chuck.

A rubber band is wrapped around the nose of the smoke box to support the outside while it was gripped from the inside on chuck.
Then I used more rubber bands that wrap around the back of the chuck and pull the piece forward onto the chuck.

I move the cutting tool very slowly and cut no more than .005 deep at a time.

The end is now square and smooth.
It is time now to get a piece of PVC drain pipe and start making the rest of the boiler.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Feb 5, 2016 11:34 AM:
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The boiler is made out of a piece of 1-1/2" PVC drain pipe.
I wrap masking tape around where I want to cut the pipe.
By carefully cutting along the front edge of the masking tape, I can make the cut close to being square to the pipe.

With the pipe cut to the overall length, I wrap another piece of masking tape alongside the first piece of tape.
At the back edge of this tape, I cut a small groove lengthwise in the pipe ( marked by the arrows ).
Then I cut the pipe again at the back edge of the second tape.
This is so I can put the shorter piece of pipe in the lathe.

To left of the pipe in the photo is a small piece of 1-1/4" PVC pipe that has been turned down to fit inside the 1-1/2" pipe.

The short piece of 1-1/2" pipe is turned on the lathe to finish squaring the face.
The end is machined with a collar on it.

The smoke box fits onto this collar.

The piece of smaller pipe is put into the end of the larger pipe and glued in place.

The two pieces of pipe are glued back together with the small grooves lined up so it goes back together like it was.
The cut mark on the pipe will be covered with one of the boiler bands later.

The electric motor and gear housing are mounted on the rear chassis.
The underside of the back of the boiler is cut out to clear the motor and gear housing.

This is how it fits on the chassis.

The cab unit is mounted on the rear chassis and the new "boiler" is glued to the cab.

Once that is dry, the smoke box is glued to the front of the boiler.
The overall basic shape of the engine is now set.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Feb 13, 2016 05:14 PM:
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I used thin strips of styrene to make the bands on the boiler.

The foot boards are made from strips that are cut from a sheet diamond patterned styrene.
These strips are only .020 thick and very flexible.
So a strip of balsa wood is first glued onto the side of the boiler for the foot board.
Then the styrene strip is glued on top of the balsa wood.

The outside edge of the balsa wood strip is covered with a strip of styrene to give the foot board edge a smooth finish that the paint won't soak into.

The steam supply lines for the rear cylinders are made up from styrene tubing and elbows.
The caps for the ends of the pipes at the cylinders and the "T" pipe connection to the cylinders are machined from a piece of clear styrene rod.
The "S" curve in the lines is made from a 90 deg. elbow that is cut in half and then glued back together so one end faces forward and the other end faces back.

The parts used are in the top of the photo and the finished parts are at the bottom.

The steam supply lines are attached to the boiler and the end of the "T" fitting sets into the top of the steam cylinder.

The two steam supply lines are attached so they stay with the boiler when the rear chassis is removed.

These are some parts of boilers from the AHM 0-8-0 kit that still have some usable items on them.

I cut them apart and that leaves me a smoke box that can be used for another locomotive model and some parts to go on this locomotive.

The smoke box is put away in a drawer and the other parts are trimmed down to fit on top of the boiler.
Here's how it looks so far.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Feb 20, 2016 04:33 PM:
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The front of the smoke box on the AHM 0-8-0 locomotive model kit has a headlight, bell and the feedwater heater at the top of the front plate.

This big articulated locomotive uses two air compressors and they are mounted on the front of the smoke box.
The air compressor for the AHM 0-8-0 is made in two half's that are glued together to form the compressor.
The back half fits on a bracket with two pegs that fit into the back of the compressor.
I filled the mounting holes in the back of the compressor with styrene and then drilled and tapped them for 0-80 screws. ( bottom left of photo ).

The hole for the headlight in the access door is covered with a round cap and a strip of styrene is glued to the front on either side of the this door.
Two holes are drilled in each of the styrene strips for mounting the compressors.
The back of one of the compressors is fastened in place on the smoke box front ( bottom left of photo ).
The front half of the two compressors are at the top of the photo.

This is how it looks with the compressors and the feedwater heater mounted in place.

This is fit onto the front of the smoke box and the piping is attached.

The throttle linkage is run along the right side from the cab to the lever on the side of the smoke box.
The lines are also run down from both sand domes.

The power reverse is mounted to the side of the boiler over the two rear wheels and and the mechanical oiler is mounted over the front wheel.

A mounting bracket is built for the mechanical oiler on the front chassis.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Mar 1, 2016 04:50 PM:
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Running the piping lines on both sides of the boiler.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Mar 2, 2016 02:06 PM:
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With the locomotive setting on the table, I hold a pencil on a piece of wood and draw a line down both sides of the boiler.
Then I make a mark every two inches for where the holes will be drilled for the hand rail stanchions.

Getting all of these holes drilled straight is a little more of a problem so I built this "drill jig" that holds the locomotive for drilling.

The locomotive is held in place by rubber bands.

Then I can use my drill press for drilling the holes for the hand rail stanchions.

Do one side and turn the locomotive around and do the other side.

This way it is easy to keep the holes in a line and they are all drilled at the same angle.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Sep 6, 2016 09:23 AM:
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It's been awhile since I posted anything on this locomotive ... I've only been able to get a little time here and there to work on it.

I cut pieces of Plastruct tubing and started gluing them together to make the steam line for the front cylinders.

The steam line is all glued together.

The steam line is mounted to the top of the front cylinders with two small hex head screws.

The steam line comes out from under the boiler to the front cylinders.

Starting to make the footplate that sits across the front of the smoke box and is mounted on the front of the chassis for the front set of drive wheels.
This is a view of the underside of front footplate.

This is the top view of the footplate with diamond tread on the cross piece.

This is how it looks when mounted to the front chassis.

I looked thru my brass parts and couldn't find a set of front steps for a locomotive so I'm going to build a set.
I took a short section of "O-gauge" house steeps and cut them in half.
Then I cut two pieces of styrene "U" channel to use for the inside edge of the steps.

Here is how the pieces look glued together.

And how they look glued to the front of the footplate.

The support bars and cross bracing are added to the steps.

Then I formed the hand railing and mounted the headlight.

The front footplate is then mounted on the chassis.

How it looks with the front chassis setting in place under the boiler.

Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Nov 18, 2017 04:28 PM:
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It has been a while since I posted anything on this but I have finally been able to take some time to work on this locomotive again. ........

I have an old tender made out of tin that was sold as a kit back in the 40's or 50's and I have decided to clean it up and use it for this locomotive.

I put 6-wheel tender trucks under it and mounted a end-sill on the rear and installed a pin under the front for the draw bar to hook to.

The front wheels on the rear chassis and the rear wheels on the front chassis, do not have springs on them.
So I took four brass springs and soldered them onto two pieces of brass plate.
Here I'm soldering the first spring to the piece of brass plate.

Here are the two finished pairs of springs.

Then I machined a piece of styrene to fit each of the chassis.

The blocks of styrene are glued in between the frame rails.

Two holes are drilled and tapped into each block of styrene.

Here are the ends of the two chassis units with the new springs mounted in place.

This is how they look when attached to the locomotive body.
The brass springs now fill in the area above the wheel sets.

With the construction of the chassis units completed, it is time to paint them.
The bearing blocks for the wheels on the AHM frames fit snugly as they are so the frames need to be masked off so paint doesn't get into the bearing mounts.

On the rear chassis, I have installed the drive gears, motor and electrical pickups that ride on the inside of the wheels.
The parts for the valve linkage and side rods are sorted out on the table to the left of the chassis.

The valve linkage and side rods are all riveted together.

Both chassis units have the valve linkage installed.

Starting with the front chassis, the wheels are then put onto the frame rails.

And the side rods and valve linkage are hooked up.

The steam cylinders and front deck are mounted in place and the pilot wheels are installed to complete the front chassis.

The wheels are mounted on the rear chassis and the side rods installed.
Before I go any farther with this, I put it on a test track and made sure that the chassis runs smoothly.

had already painted the locomotive and tender body's several weeks ago so all I have to do now is assemble everything and the engine is finished.

I still don't have an area for a layout yet so this locomotive will have to be content to sit on one of my display shelves with some of my other engines that I built.

Joined: Jul 30, 2011
Topics: 76   Replies: 131
posted on Nov 18, 2017 06:52 PM:
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A most impressive piece of work! Very well done.
Joined: Apr 4, 2011
Topics: 46   Replies: 65
posted on Nov 19, 2017 04:51 PM:
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Thank you Ed .. I appreciate your comment.


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